Nurtured ingredient guide

Natural oils, explained with care.

Explore the ingredient notes and references behind selected Nurtured formulas.

These ingredient notes are for educational purposes. They describe how oils may be used in topical cosmetic formulas and are not medical advice.

01 / Natural oil

Castor oil in hair formulas

Castor oil helps the hair look thicker and smoother by nourishing and coating the hair with natural oils. Common synthetic conditioners work mainly by coating the hair with smooth films to reduce breakage and add shine, but they do not support the scalp or hair in a biological way.

CategoryCastor OilDimethicone (Silicone)Polyquaternium-10Behentrimonium Chloride
Primary role in hair careNatural oil for conditioning, shine, breakage reduction1, 2Synthetic smoothing and slip agent3, 4Synthetic conditioning polymer3, 4Synthetic detangling and softening agent3, 4
How it worksCoats and lubricates hair fibers; supports scalp moisture1Forms a smooth, water-repellent surface film3Binds electrostatically to the hair surface3Binds strongly to hair fibers to soften3
Hair thickening / fullness (appearance)Moderate1, 2Strong3Moderate3Mild-Moderate3
Reduces breakage / frictionYes1, 2Yes3Yes3Yes3
Scalp moisturization supportStrong1Mixed (occlusive, non-hydrating)3, 4Limited4Limited4
Biological interaction with scalpSupportive (barrier and comfort)1None4, 5None4, 5None4, 5
Supports long-term scalp healthPossible (moisture balance)1, 2Not studied / not intended4Not studied / not intended4Not studied / not intended4
Natural originYesNoNoNo
References
  1. Sahu PK, Giri DD, Singh R, et al. Therapeutic and medicinal uses of castor oil: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research. 2017;8(2):427-435. PMCID: PMC9231528.
  2. Singh M, Sharma S, Khokra SL. Evaluation of hair growth potential of polyherbal formulation containing castor oil. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry. 2023;12(1):117-123. PMCID: PMC9963650.
  3. Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed. Springer; 2012.
  4. Gavazzoni Dias MFR. Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology. 2015;7(1):2-15. PMID: 25878437.
  5. Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Safety assessment of dimethicone, polyquaterniums, and quaternary ammonium compounds. International Journal of Toxicology.

02 / Natural oil

Olive Squalane in Baby Skin-Care Formulations

Olive squalane is made by hydrogenating squalene, a lipid naturally found in olive oil and in human skin. It is valued as a lightweight emollient that softens skin and helps hold in moisture.

Function / mechanismOlive squalaneMineral oilPetrolatum
Softens and smooths skinEmollient and skin-conditioning properties3Established emollient4Established emollient5
Helps reduce moisture lossImproved hydration and reduced TEWL reported for squalene, the compound squalane is made from2Helps reduce water loss through occlusion4Strong occlusive effect helps reduce water loss5
Supports skin-barrier functionPotential benefit based on related squalene research in adults; infant-specific evidence is limited2, 3Supports barrier care by reducing moisture loss4Supports barrier care through occlusion5
Antioxidant activityNot primarily used as an antioxidant; activity reported for squalene relates to its unsaturated structure3Not primarily used as an antioxidant active4Not primarily used as an antioxidant active5
Improves skin supplenessPotential skin-conditioning benefit3Emollient effect4Emollient effect5
Oxidation stabilityFully saturated, so much more resistant to oxidation than squalene3Generally stable when appropriately refined and stored4Generally stable under appropriate storage conditions5
Evidence in infant skin careLimited direct infant-specific evidence1, 3Established topical use; direct infant evidence depends on the product and outcome studied4Neonatal evidence is formulation- and population-specific; universal benefit or superiority is not established5
Cosmetic ingredient safety assessmentCIR concluded safe as used in cosmetics; this does not establish infant-specific safety1Established cosmetic and pharmaceutical use; ingredient grade and formulation matter4Established topical use; suitability depends on the finished product and intended use5
Safety profileGenerally considered well tolerated in cosmetic applications1Generally well tolerated when appropriately refined and used in suitable formulations4Generally well tolerated; rare adverse reactions or contact sensitivity may occur5
Common considerationsIngredient purity and source matter; stable during normal storage1, 3Greasy feel or residue; ingredient purity and grade matter4Heavy or greasy feel; suitability depends on the formulation and intended use5
Suitability for topical formulationsYes, subject to formulation-specific assessment1, 3Yes4Yes5
References
  1. M. Fiume et al., “Squalane and Squalene” International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 42, no. 3_suppl, pp. 107S-109S, Sep. 2023, doi: 10.1177/10915818231204276.
  2. M. Filipović et al., “Alp Rose Stem Cells, Olive Oil Squalene and a Natural Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier: Are They Appropriate Ingredients of Skin Moisturizers - in Vivo Efficacy on Normal and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate - Irritated Skin?” Vojnosanitetski Pregled, vol. 73, no. 11, pp. 991–1002, Nov. 2016, doi: 10.2298/VSP150116122F.
  3. Z.-R. Huang, Y.-K. Lin, and J.-Y. Fang, “Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology” Molecules, vol. 14, no. 1, pp. 540–554, Jan. 2009, doi: 10.3390/molecules14010540.
  4. A. V. Rawlings and K. J. Lombard, “A Review on the Extensive Skin Benefits of Mineral Oil” International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 34, no. 6, pp. 511–518, Sep. 2012, doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00752.x.
  5. P. Kamrani, J. Hedrick, J. G. Marks, and A. L. Zaenglein, “Petroleum Jelly: A Comprehensive Review of Its History, Uses, and Safety” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 90, no. 4, pp. 807–813, Apr. 2024, doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2023.06.010.

03 / Natural oil

Moringa Seed Oil for Infant Skin-Care Formulations

Moringa seed oil is a plant-derived oil extracted from the seeds of Moringa oleifera. Rich in oleic acid, it has potential emollient, moisturizing, and antioxidant properties, making it a promising ingredient for skin-care formulations. However, its safety and efficacy for infant skin care require further investigation.

Evaluation criterionMoringa seed oilMineral oilPetrolatum
Skin hydrationImproved hydration in a human skin-formulation study1Helps reduce moisture loss4Commonly used as an occlusive moisturizer to support skin hydration5
Topical formulation suitabilityCream formulation developed and physical stability evaluated1Established topical use4Used as a moisturizer and in dermatological skin care5
Skin-conditioning benefitsEmollient and skin-conditioning potential1Established emollient4Supports epidermal barrier function and differentiation5
Antioxidant activityDemonstrated in laboratory testing1Not a primary benefit4Not evaluated as a primary outcome in the cited study5
Soothing / anti-inflammatory potentialPositive preclinical findings in skin-inflammation models2Not an established primary benefit4Reduced T-cell infiltrates in nonlesional atopic dermatitis skin in the study5
Wound-healing potentialPositive findings in mouse wound models3Not established by the cited reference4Findings support potential relevance to barrier-defective skin and postoperative wound care; direct wound-healing efficacy was not established by this study5
Skin-barrier protectionPotential skin-conditioning benefits1Helps limit moisture loss4Increased stratum corneum thickness and expression of barrier-differentiation markers, including filaggrin and loricrin5
Antimicrobial responseNot established by the cited studiesNot assessed in the cited reference4Increased expression of several antimicrobial peptides in petrolatum-occluded skin5
Human skin tolerabilityNo irritation reported in the tested cream study1Established topical use4Investigated in healthy participants and patients with atopic dermatitis5
Infant-specific safety and efficacyNot established by the cited studiesDepends on product and intended useNot established by this study; infant-specific assessment is required
References
  1. S. Athikomkulchai, P. Tunit, S. Tadtong, P. Jantrawut, S. R. Sommano, and C. Chittasupho, “Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil Formulation Physical Stability and Chemical Constituents for Enhancing Skin Hydration and Antioxidant Activity” Cosmetics, vol. 8, no. 1, p. 2, Dec. 2020, doi: 10.3390/cosmetics8010002.
  2. A. B. M. Cretella et al., “Expanding the Anti-Inflammatory Potential of Moringa Oleifera: Topical Effect of Seed Oil on Skin Inflammation and Hyperproliferation” Journal of Ethnopharmacology, vol. 254, p. 112708, May 2020, doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2020.112708.
  3. A. Lucia et al., “The Oil From Moringa Oleifera Seeds Accelerates Chronic Skin Wound Healing” Phytomedicine Plus, vol. 1, no. 3, p. 100099, Aug. 2021, doi: 10.1016/j.phyplu.2021.100099.
  4. A. V. Rawlings and K. J. Lombard, “A Review on the Extensive Skin Benefits of Mineral Oil” International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 34, no. 6, pp. 511–518, Sep. 2012, doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00752.x.
  5. T. Czarnowicki et al., “Petrolatum: Barrier Repair and Antimicrobial Responses Underlying This ‘Inert’ Moisturizer” The Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, vol. 137, no. 4, pp. 1091–1102.e7, Apr. 2016, doi: 10.1016/j.jaci.2015.08.013.